From: Pouilly-Fumé, Loire Valley, France
Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc
Taste and Critical Acclaim: There are several reasons why this wine is legendary. First and foremost is the outstanding quality. Second is the flavors. Clean, subtle flavors of wet flint, orchards, lemon rind, lemongrass, gooseberry, and chalk. At once, juicy and rich, yet, it still has bracing acidity. Third reason is the potential cellaring ability. This should be a great addition to any cellar. One to decant as it reveals it's layers with air.
“Due to a challenging, small-yielding season (-60% crop) and a high level of rot toward harvest, the XXI is the only wine produced by Dagueneau in 2021. It is a blend of the various cuvées that would typically be bottled separately. Tasted on the verge of being filtered as a finished tank sample, the result is a silky yet mouthwatering expression. It's all gooseberry and elderflower on the nose with green apples and a tangy sense of refreshment on the bright finish. It reflects the cooler side of the vintage with a good grip holding the mouth. It offers decent concentration, but it's not particularly complex or lengthy.” —Vinous, 90 points
Pairing: This wine brings a convergence of brightness, lush flavors, and deep minerality that will beautifully complement grilled or baked white fish (like cod or sea bass), oysters or clams, and seafood that carries more weight, say salmon or tuna. It will also pair well with roasted white meats and light pasta or risotto dishes, particularly when prepared with a lemony or herby profile. Of course, it’s also a wonderful match for green salads, especially those featuring goat cheese (baked over crostini or fresh), arugula, or asparagus. This recipe for One-Pot Zucchini-Basil Pasta by Alexa Weibel has a lovely balance of richness and zest that will complement the wine nicely.
About. Domaine Didier Dagueneau, is located in the Loire Valley's Pouilly-Fumé appellation. Founded by Didier Dagueneau in the 1980s, the estate quickly rose to prominence, challenging the conventions of winemaking in the region. Didier, a man of strong convictions and a deep knowledge of viticulture and botany, was known for his unorthodox methods, which included low yields, rigorous selection, and a commitment to biodynamic principles.
Born into a family of winemakers in the village of St Andelain in Pouilly-Fumé, Didier Dagueneau was an outsider with a rebellious spirit. His early life was marked by a love for adventure, including a stint as a motorcycle sidecar racer. This fearless attitude carried over into his winemaking, where he was unafraid to experiment and push the boundaries of what was possible in Pouilly-Fumé. His wines, particularly his iconic Silex and Pur Sang, are celebrated for their precision, minerality, and ability to express the region's unique terroir.
Dagueneau's vineyards, located on some of the finest terroirs in Pouilly-Fumé, are meticulously cared for, focusing on sustainability and respect for the land. He was an early adopter of biodynamic practices, believing that the health of the soil and vines was integral to producing wines of character and depth. His commitment to quality extended to every aspect of production, from hand-harvesting to the use of custom oak barrels for fermentation and aging.
Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau and Charlotte Dagueneau now run Domaine Didier Dagueneau. Louis-Benjamin, often referred to as Benjamin, was already deeply involved in the winemaking process alongside his father before Didier's untimely death in 2008 in a plane crash. Known for his meticulous attention to detail and commitment to quality, Benjamin has maintained the estate's high standards while introducing his innovations to the winemaking process. His work ensures that the wines continue to receive critical acclaim and remain highly sought after. While less involved in the day-to-day winemaking, Charlotte plays a significant role in managing the estate's administrative and management aspects. She has also embarked on her winemaking project in the Loire Valley, further expanding the Dagueneau family's regional influence. Together, Benjamin and Charlotte uphold the values and vision that their father instilled, ensuring that the wines of Domaine Didier Dagueneau remain faithful to the unique terroir of Pouilly-Fumé and the distinctive style that Didier pioneered.
Domaine Didier Dagueneau's renowned cuvées are crafted from Sauvignon Blanc grapes grown in a complex mix of chalky limestone, clay, and silex, which contributes to the distinctive minerality and character of the wines. The vineyards are managed biodynamically, with a commitment to sustainable farming practices, ensuring the health of the vines and the land. The domaine employs twice the number of employees than a conventional winery would use for the same acreage. As a result, they produce, on the average, 75% of the yields common to neighboring wineries.
Since the beginning, it was Dagueneau’s preference to age his wine in barrels. A mix of sizes, shapes, and percentage of new and used barrels is used depending on vineyard and vintage. The current practice is to hold the wines in oak for their first year, and then to transfer them into tanks and hold them “en masse” for 5 to 7 months before bottling.
The “XXI” is a blend of the domaine’s best parcels in Pouilly-Fumé and the only wine Dagueneau released in 2021. What you get is a unique Sauvignon Blanc experience.