From: Chinon, France
Varietal: Cabernet Franc
Taste: Luscious, deep aromas of black currant and blackberry meet ripe raspberry and bing cherry with an undercurrent of graphite minerality and just a smidge of roasted red pepper. For lack of better words, this Cabernet Franc is deliciously drinkable. Those deep fruit notes blossom on the palate for a voluptuous mouthfeel while not feeling too weighty or off-balance. You’ll discover hints of dry, savory herbs and tomato leaves underneath all that gorgeous dark fruit, and structured tannins bring this wine home with a long, lingering finish.
Pairing: Steak, charcuterie, sausages, veal, or roasted chicken are just a few suggestions for this delicious wine. While those traditional companions pair seamlessly alongside many a Cabernet Franc, this wine's complexity invites more adventurous pairings, such as ginger-dill salmon or mochiko chicken. Some other ideas extend to Mongolian beef, bibimbap, kalbi, Korean BBQ, pork ribs (check out the recipe below), and even beef or mushroom stroganoff.
Vietnamese Braised Pork Ribs
By David Tanis
About. Conversations about viticulture often take center stage in the world of wine. It turns reverent when discussions include the beloved, cult-favorite vigneron Angélique Leon. She’s a fervent devotee of organic farming and minimal intervention in the vineyard, based in Loire Valley’s Chinon, and a firm steward of the Cabernet Franc grape varietal. So much so that she only makes three wines. Her devotion becomes evident in the fruits of her labor; the harmony of aromas and flavors in the glass is so inextricably linked to the local soils that it is easy to imagine each bottle of Chinon filled with whispers of the vineyard earth.
The 2022 Angélique Leon Chinon Clos de Danzay Cabernet Franc leads us to ponder this notion. Its aromatic profile evokes impressions of red clay, potting soil, chalk, and rock salt, underlain by undertones of dry, savory herbs and tomato leaves. Yet, despite its unequivocally earthy character, the wine does not shun the fruit-bearing aspect of its identity. Swirls of black raspberry jam and juicy black cherry emerge, harmoniously
intermingling with a subtle, unmistakable Cab-Franc hint of roasted red bell pepper and deep graphite. The essence of the earth echoes through the wine's texture, the sturdy, rough-hewn tannins, and home-spun acidity, providing a backdrop for warming flavors and notes of blackberry, cornflour, and dried oregano. It's a sensory voyage that begins with the first sniff and resonates through the finish.
Born into a family of vintners, Angélique Leon assumed the reins of her parent's estate
in Savigny-en-Véron, nestled in the heart of the Loire Valley, in 2002. A one-woman
force, she tends the vines, harvests the grapes, and vinifies the wines. Situated at the
confluence of the Loire and Vienne rivers, the 7-hectare vineyard – part of the Chinon
appellation – offers a complex topography of sandy, gravel, clay, and limestone slopes.
While the vineyard yields mainly red wines, a small (5%) rosé output adds a blush of diversity. The estate's average 30-40-year-old vines are exclusively Cabernet Franc.
Leon's philosophy embraces the belief that great wines originate in the vineyard and are sculpted by minimal intervention. Adopting sustainable practices for soil management and disease and pest control, she transitioned to fully organic methods in 2018. Hand-harvesting ensures optimal grape selection, and the wines are vinified separately by plot, their blend defined by the style of each vintage. Her aspiration is simple: "My wines will give you the same pleasure as I get from my work.”
The Cabernet Franc, or 'Breton' as it's known locally, yields a wine of dark ruby hue,
with a floral nose laced with hints of violet and lilac. It dances on the palate with red and black fruits like raspberry, cranberry, red cherry, blackberry, and blackcurrant,
punctuated by an unmistakable minerality and earthiness. A signature green leafy streak adds a vegetal dimension, evoking impressions of sage, green bell pepper, and grass. While softer on the tannins than its Cabernet Sauvignon counterpart, it still offers a smooth mouthfeel and racy acidity.
These notes of black fruits, herbs, tea, anise, and venison are particularly evident in
well-aged bottles, often complemented by hints of spice. This versatility makes the
Cabernet Franc a gracious partner to various dishes. While red meats such as beef and
lamb are traditional companions, this wine's complexity invites more adventurous
pairings, such as ginger-dill salmon or mochiko chicken.
