From: Piemonte, Italy
Varietal: Nebbiolo
Critical Acclaim:
Wine Advocate: 95 Points
The Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2019 Barolo sees fruit from a large vineyard site in the Breri MGA with southern exposures and slightly lower elevations. It borders Monvigliero but only reaches 250 meters in elevation. It also shares the blue marl soils that distinguish this area. The wine offers pretty fruit intensity with ruby fruit, bright cherry and cassis. This vintage takes a little longer to open, and although it doesn't share the complexity of its neighboring cru, this is a fine expression from Verduno.
Vinous: 92 Points
The 2019 Barolo is a very pretty, elegant wine. In this vintage, the straight Barolo has (unusually) a touch of whole cluster influence that drives the aromatic profile, adding gorgeous floral and savory intensity this wine does not typically have. Burlotto's Barolo is far from an easygoing wine, it is a Barolo to cellar for a few years and drink for another decade or so beyond. This super-classic Barolo is an absolute gem.
Taste: This classic Barolo opens with aromas of woodland berries, new leather, intense balsamic notes, and a refreshing hint of menthol. This captivating bouquet is complemented by heady aromas of blue flower, perfumed berry, balsamic herb, fennel, and sandalwood that waft out of the glass. On the palate, this Barolo effortlessly melds juicy red cherry, herbs, sweet spices, and mineral notes together. The texture is smooth and silky (with about an hour of decanting), with velvety tannins that envelop the palate, while the brisk acidity maintains a well-balanced structure. Nuances of raspberry compote and licorice add a delightful complexity, while subtle salty mineral notes further enhance the flavor depth. The finish is lengthy and elegant, leaving a lingering memory of the wine's refined character.
Pairing: It marries particularly well with rich meat dishes, making it an ideal companion to slow-roasted beef, wild game, or a traditional Italian Osso Buco (see below for recipe). Its balanced acidity and pronounced tannins also make it an excellent match for fatty foods, cutting through the richness of dishes like foie gras or duck confit. In the spirit of its Piedmontese roots, this Barolo would also pair beautifully with truffle-based dishes. The earthy, umami flavors of truffle risotto or truffle-infused pasta would complement the wine's fruit and spice profile and harmonize with its structured complexity.
Osso Buco Alla Milanese
By Florence Fabricant
About. In the heart of Piemonte, Italy, we find a treasure—Burlotto, the flagship producer from Barolo’s Verduno area. This property, founded in 1850 by the commendable Giovan Battista Burlotto, is a testament to historic importance, delicious wines, and exceptional value.
The Burlotto estate commemorates the royal house of Savoy’s appreciation for its wines through its labels, paying homage to the exclusive presence of Burlotto wines on Duke Luigi Amedeo's 1899 North Pole expedition. A testament to the wine's resilience and quality, Duke Amedeo wrote that “[t]he wine has been conserved in perfect condition,” despite his personal hardship of losing two fingers to frostbite. G.B. Burlotto was not just a winemaker but a pioneer, heralding the practice of selling wine in bottle and championing the now-rare, yet delicious grape, Pelaverga Piccolo.
Carrying on this rich legacy, G.B.’s great-great-nephew, Fabio Alessandria, continues to uphold the traditional winemaking practices of the estate, including fermenting the wine in upright wooden vats and using indigenous yeast. There's much to admire about these wines—their historical context, their pure fruit, delicate structure, and signature Verduno floral aromatics and spicy palate.
The Burlotto family's single-vineyard Barolos, especially the Monvigliero, have received wide acclaim and remain favorites among critics and collectors. Yet, their mastery doesn't stop with Nebbiolo; the estate also produces exceptional wines from Piedmont's more humble grapes, such as Dolcetto, Barbera, and of course, Pelaverga. These wines offer a glimpse into the unique charms of these grape varieties, offering terroir transparency and sheer drinkability that's surprisingly affordable for such top-rank wines.