From: Volnay, Burgundy, France
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Taste & Critical Acclaim: “The Santenots du Milieu from Lafon is marvelous wine and among my favourites among the Volnay premier crus, with its perfumed red and black fruit and pleasant floral notes. The texture on the palate is dynamic, with fresh acidity that carry the wine to a pleasantly lingering finish. There is enough extract and ripeness to the tannins to avoid any astringent notes. This wine represents the best of the 3.8 hectares of Santenots du Milieu in the heart of the appellation—a magnificent parcel that consistently produces one of the best red wines south of Corton.” 94 Points, Christy Canterbury, Decanter, Date: 01/2023
"The 2021 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru comes from all the Domaine's vines, including the youngest ones. Wonderful aromatics on the nose: wild strawberry, cranberry, rose petals and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, lovely balance and purity and very harmonious with a slightly grainy texture. Slips down the throat with ease. Outstanding given the growing season. Drink: 2025-2048. (Nov 2022)” 93-95 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
"Exhibiting aromas of raspberries, vine smoke, warm spices, wintergreen and orange
zest, the 2021 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with an enveloping core of cool, vibrant fruit and a rich, sensual profile. Transcending stereotypes of the vintage, it's a beautiful bottling in the making. (01/31/23)." 92-94 points William Kelley, Wine Advocate
“From a huge 3.78 ha holding of 40+ year old vines planted in shallow, high clay content soil sitting above a bed of solid limestone. Here the nose is firmly reduced and revealing nothing. Otherwise there is good punch on the lighter weight flavors that possess lovely delineation while displaying focused power on the firm, serious and austere finale. This is an excellent example of 'power without weight' and a wine that should repay up to a decade of keeping. (04/23).” 90-92 points Allen Meadows, Burghound
"No new wood. The last year of the old destemmer. Not very deep in colour. The cherry fruit is most appealing, without the greater density of some vintages. But there may be a finesse missing in the 2017. Floral notes as well, some acidity, and a little pepperiness. Very attractive for the medium term, will hold thereafter but not necessarily gain. Drink from 2027-2034. (Jul 2023).” 91 points Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
Pairing: Consider pairing it with a classic roast duck breast, where the wine’s red and black fruit notes will elevate the savory, gamey flavors. For a touch of earthiness, try it alongside wild mushroom risotto, which will match the wine’s subtle hints of vine smoke and spices. A herb-crusted rack of lamb would harmonize with the tannins, while a truffle-infused chicken dish would bring out its floral elegance. For lighter fare, seared tuna or salmon with a miso glaze would echo the wine's vibrant acidity. The slight pepperiness and wintergreen hints make this Volnay a perfect partner for a pepper- crusted beef tenderloin or a rich coq au vin.
Roasted Free-Range Chicken With Swiss Chard And Marrow Gratin
Recipe from Le Cirque
Adapted by Molly O'Neill
About. Domaine des Comtes Lafon has been in the Lafon family since 1865. Dominique Lafon took over the domaine in 1985. It is comprised of approximately 14 hectares situated in the communes of Volnay, Monthélie, Chassagne-Montrachet, and, of course, Meursault, where the domaine and its monopole vineyard Clos de la Barre are located.
“There are few growers anywhere in the world more committed to improving his vineyards to make ever better wine than Dominique Lafon. He tirelessly questions his and others’ methods, always looking to improve.” —Daniel Johnnes
All the vineyards are cultivated biodynamically—the estate became certified in 1998— and proudly own every Premier Cru in Meursault. Dominique retired at the end of 2021, handing over the reins to his daughter, Léa, and nephew, Pierre, who, as part of the fifth generation of winemakers in the Lafon family, will continue this domaine’s superstar reputation not only in Burgundy but throughout the world.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon is comprised of approximately 14 hectares situated in the communes of Volnay, Monthélie, Chassagne-Montrachet, and, of course, Meursault, where the domaine and its monopole vineyard Clos de la Barre are located.
Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu is about 8 hectares in total surface area, meaning that Domaine des Comtes Lafon owns almost half of the appellation. Their parcel has a high proportion of old vines. When replanting, they use a combined method with a blend of massal and clonal selection (at least five different types). Pruning is mostly Guyot, with some Cordon Royat.
Wine Notes: This wine comes from a 3.9-hectare (9.64-acre) plot, planted exclusively with Pinot Noir. The vines, some of which date back to 1944, with additional plantings in 1962, 1965, and 1978, benefit from an east-facing terroir that features shallow red clay
soil over a hard limestone substrate. This sunny, early-ripening site is ideal for cultivating grapes with concentrated flavors.
The vineyard is managed with certified organic and biodynamic practices, reflecting a commitment to sustainability and natural viticulture. During vinification, the grapes are fully de-stemmed and cooled to 12-15°C for 4-6 days of whole-grape maceration. Fermentation occurs naturally with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks, lasting about 10 days, with 1-2 punch-downs per day to gently extract color and flavor.
Following fermentation, the wine settles in the tank for 1-2 weeks before being gravity- transferred to oak barrels, one-third of which are new. Aging on fine lees in these barrels continues for 18-22 months, allowing the wine to develop depth and complexity. Finally, the wine is blended in the tank, achieving a balanced expression of the vineyard's character.
