“Domaine Fabien Coche ... is one of the most underrated sources of high-quality white Burgundy in the Côte de Beaune. Alain Coche took his time, leaving his wines on the lees to mature at a leisurely pace for two winters, and produced classically balanced, textbook Meursault that evolved beautifully in the cellar; today, his son Fabien follows suit, with a few small refinements: today, the Coche harvest takes two weeks, not one, with each parcel brought in at optimal maturity, and there are more larger-format barrels in the cellar alongside the regular Burgundian pièces. These are not stylized, flashy wines, and they aren’t as dramatic as some of the region’s more sought-after domaines on release, but readers with the patience to cellar them will be amply rewarded.”
— William Kelley, Wine Advocate, May 2019
Fourth-generation vigneron Fabien Coche took over his family’s domaine in 2005. Hailing from one of Burgundies most famed families (Coche-Dury was part of the same domaine until 1940 and is run by his cousin Raphael), Fabien has quickly become the Coche of the current generation making the most waves. His enviable vineyard holdings total nearly 11 hectares spread across Meursault, Monthelie, Pommard and Auxey-Duresses.
Fabien Coche’s father is a first cousin of Jean-Francois Coche-Dury and it is not so long ago that the two domaines shared almost identical labels. Fabien started working with his father in 1998 and since 2005 has taken over the running and now has his own his own distinctive labels.
Organic farming practices here since 1998 for the 40 plots of vines that the family owns and now with 20 vintages experience. Average vine age is impressive here with more than 60% of vines over 60 years old.
Stylistically the wines at this estate are incredibly pure with little (if any) discernable mark from the hand of the winemaker with new oak at a low 25% and a notable percentage of larger format barrels. I would place the style of his wines in-between that of his cousins Coche-Dury and Roulot. Fabiens wines have the acidity and purity of Roulot without the trademark SO2 which tends to mark Roulots wines when young, and also without the extravagant luxuriant texture that so defines the wines of Coche-Dury. Here we simply find real old vine depth delivering some of the purest expressions of each vineyard site that we have seen right the way through the range from Aligote right to the very top.
Fabien Coche Burgundy, France
AOC Meursault, AOC Meursault 1er Cru
AOC Puligny-Montrachet + Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
AOC Pommard, AOC Pommard 1er Cru
AOC Auxey-Duresses, AOC Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru
AOC Monthelie, AOC Monthelie 1er Cru
Proprietor: Fabien Coche
Winemaker: Fabien Coche
Wine Making Overview: Hand harvest or low yields, whole bunch pressing, long ageing on lees 12 months for Aligote and Bourgogne and up to 18 months for Meursaults. Red wines have partial whole bunch with very gentle maceration and pumping over and are bottled after about 8-12 months ageing with only a small percentage of new oak to accent freshness and finesse.
Viticulture: Practising organic since 1998
Vegan Friendly: Yes
Vineyard Area: 12ha
Auxey Duresses village + Premier cru
Meursault villages + Premier Cru
Monthelie village + Premier Cru
Pommard village + Premier Cru
plus vineyards rented in Saint Aubin Les Combes Premier Cru, Puligny Montrachet La Garenne Premier Cru, Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres Premier Cru and Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
Vine Density: 8000 to 11000
Average Production: 5000 dozen